Surfing : a way of life / by Sam George ; photography by Aaron Chang
ClassificationsBooks
Credit LineGeorge, Sam
Object numberBKS.1227
DescriptionWritten by Sam George, a surfer of long standing and wide repute, Surfing: A Way of Life reveals the real world of surfing--from the joy of finding a perfect wave to the agony of the inevitable wipeouts. Discover the noble history of surfing, its repression at the hands of pious early missionaries, its appeal to advocates such as Jack London, and its resurgence through the Sixties until reaching its widest popularity today. Stunning full color photographs by one of the world's foremost surfing photographers reveal the thrill of riding the waves in surfing spots both exotic and closer to home and the excitement felt by some of the best surfers in the sport's history.On View
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