Surfing and the meaning of life / by Ben Marcus ; photography by Jeff Divine
ClassificationsBooks
Credit LineMarcus, Ben
Object numberBKS.1133
DescriptionAll sports have their culture, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life--or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it.On View
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