Barbarian days : a surfing life / by William Finnegan
MediumBook
Dimensions447 p. : ill. ; 25 cm.
ClassificationsBooks
Object numberBKS.1040
DescriptionBarbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing looks like a sport, but that's only to outsiders. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.On View
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