The next wave : the world of surfing / edited by Nick Carroll
ClassificationsBooks
Object numberBKS.281
DescriptionSection of the intro: Why surf? What is the lure of the ocean? What is it that excites millions of people to throw themselves into the salty sea, have huge waves crash down upon their heads and finally to ride a roaring swell into the sand so they can do it all over again? Why do they travel to all corners of the globe, always chasing the next wave? Here is a book which answers these questions. For the first time it pulls together the talents of the best surf writers and the surf world's award-winning action photographers. Inside you'll find a fascinating essay on the great Hawaiian chieftain-surfers of centuries past; an accurate, witty tracking of the surf bug as it spread worldwide; a look at the crazy characters and the big-wave cult of the 1960's; a detailed analysis of pro surfing and its superstars.On View
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