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North Shore chronicles : big-wave surfing in Hawaii / by Bruce Jenkins
North Shore chronicles : big-wave surfing in Hawaii / by Bruce Jenkins

North Shore chronicles : big-wave surfing in Hawaii / by Bruce Jenkins

ClassificationsBooks
Credit LineJenkins, Bruce
Object numberBKS.15
DescriptionPart of intro: This is a personal account of 15 trips to the North Shore, dating back to 1974. As a surfer, while never venturing out into the really big stuff, I have known the exquisite pleasure of riding Hawaiian waves. As a journalist, I have met and interviewed some of the sport's most heroic figures. I find this an irresistible combination. Each winter the vacation world opens up to me--Australia, the Caribbean, Paris--yet every winter I am back on the North Shore. Seem I just can't help myself.
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